ok..the plugin that opens the big picture is fancy box
in fancybox css the left/rigth icons are set offscreen when not being hovered
line 147:
span#fancy_left_ico {
background: url("images/fancy_left.png") no-repeat scroll 0 0 transparent;
left: -9999px; // change to 20px
}
do same for right side which is a few lines down