I have an overriding css file that is included after the main JQM structure css file. The overriding style I have that removes the counter and up-down arrows is as follows:
If you are just looking to get rid of the up and down arrows, but keep the counter, I'm not sure how you would do that. You might just be able to specify a small enough width and an overflow:hidden to accomplish it.
I would like just to get rid of the arrows but I guess I will have to get rid of that. I looks like the arrows are coming chrome because of the type="range"